Bulgari

History

Founded in Rome in 1884 by Greek silversmith Sotirios Boulgaris, the house grew through the twentieth century by breaking with French Belle Époque convention in favour of bolder colour combinations and cabochon-cut stones.

Dolce Vita-era Rome - Elizabeth Taylor, Anita Ekberg, Ingrid Bergman - turned Bulgari into the jeweller of cinema, an association the house still actively cultivates.

Acquired by LVMH in 2011, Bulgari has expanded significantly into hotels, leather goods, and ultra-thin watchmaking through its Octo Finissimo line.

Craftsmanship

• High Jewellery is produced in Rome under the maison's own ateliers, with strong emphasis on coloured-stone selection and matching.
• Watches are produced in Switzerland through Bulgari's manufactures at Le Sentier, Le Locle, La Chaux-de-Fonds, and Neuchâtel.
• Hotels and resorts under the Bulgari Hotels brand are operated in partnership with Marriott but designed in-house in collaboration with Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel.

House Signatures

• Cabochon and coloured-stone-led palettes; bold use of cabochon emeralds, sapphires, and rubies.
• Serpent motif and BVLGARI BVLGARI engraved bezel.
• Ultra-thin watchmaking records held by the Octo Finissimo line.

Ownership

• Bulgari is part of LVMH's Watches & Jewellery division following the 2011 acquisition.
• Jean-Christophe Babin has led the brand for over a decade and has overseen both the High Jewellery expansion and the watchmaking pivot.

Cultural Impact

• Elizabeth Taylor was photographed with Bulgari jewellery throughout her relationship with Richard Burton, cementing the brand's association with mid-century cinema glamour.
• The Serpenti has become a cross-category icon that scales from boutique pieces to seven-figure High Jewellery commissions.

Collectibility

• Mid-century Tubogas pieces, vintage Serpenti watches, and Trombino rings with significant coloured stones occupy the top tier of the brand's collectible market.
• Octo Finissimo record-setting references - particularly limited platinum and titanium executions - have a growing collector base.
• Original boxes, certificates, and stone documentation materially affect High Jewellery resale.

Buying Notes

• Engage the boutique for High Jewellery commissions; the maison's coloured-stone access is one of its differentiators.
• For Octo Finissimo, work with the brand or authorised dealers and document service intervals.
• Care for Tubogas and Serpenti watches with periodic professional polishing only - over-polishing damages the silhouette.

Iconic Products